Choosing a small farm tractor

 If you're not familiar with farm tractors, choosing one that’s suitable for a small farm can be a daunting task. Will a compact tractor suffice and how  important is tractor size?

A good starting point when choosing a small-farm tractor is to be clear just what you want a tractor for. If it is just to mow an acre or two, or to cart a few small bales of hay, then a ride-on mower or quad bike with a tow bar may be all you want.

However, if you need to cultivate soil, spread some fertiliser or feed out some large round bales, then you are likely to require what I like to term a ‘real tractor'.  Unlike most ride-ons, a real tractor is full unit construction where the engine, transmission and rear drive train are all housed in rugged castings.  It will also have a Power Take Off (PTO), a three-point linkage and external hydraulics capability.

For most small-farm operations, all your requirements can be found within the Compact Utility (compact) range of tractors. These are essentially small tractors of 15kW (kilowatt) to 50kW (20hp to 70hp) that have many of the exact same features that are found in larger, more expensive tractors.

 Is tractor size important?
 The size of tractor you require is really determined by the job you want it to do, and the size of the implement that can do the job.  It often becomes more  an exercise in determining how much time you wish to spend doing a job, and choosing the appropriate implement and tractor to do it. It is however  important to match the size of the implement to the tractor, to ensure that both the tractor and implement operate at the optimum speed. Don’t fall into the  trap of purchasing an oversized implement for your tractor thinking it will get the job done quicker. This can labour the engine and transmission and force  you to operate in low range.

 For very small holdings, say of 4ha or less, a suitable tractor is certainly likely to be found in the 15kW to 25kW horsepower range. Tractors at the 50kW  end of the compact range can readily handle tasks found on farms 100 times this size.  For those one-off jobs requiring more horsepower, it makes more  sense to hire a contractor.

 Comparing horsepower ratings
 Horsepower ratings quoted by manufacturers of compact tractors are normally gross horsepower values for the engine running at a stated engine speed, for  example, 30kW at 2800 rpm. Sometimes the figures quoted for tractors are the horsepower as measured at the PTO, these being approximately 75% that  of the gross values. The manufacturer’s data sheet will specify which one applies. If you are comparing two tractors that quote similar horsepower figures  but different stated engine speeds, the tractor that delivers the power at the lower engine speed is likely to be of more use, as it will have more torque.

2WD or 4WD?
Most modern compact tractors are four-wheel drive (4WD). While two-wheel drive (2WD) tractors have served agriculture well in the past, modern technology has made 4WD drivetrains much more reliable and affordable. A 4WD is particularly useful in slippery ground conditions simply through providing that little bit of extra traction via the front wheels, which is often all that is required when rear-wheel traction starts to falter.

 For hill-country properties a 4WD is very strongly recommended. Most 4WDs offer much safer down-hill control due to engine braking effects via the front  wheels. Driving uphill is often safer too since a 4WD is usually heavier in the front end. Both these aspects can be dangerously lacking in 2WD tractors.

 Power Take Off (PTO)
 A tractor PTO is a splined shaft found at the rear of a tractor that is powered by the tractor's engine. Various farming implements like rotary hoes can be  quickly connected to this shaft usually by means of a drive shaft attachment.  Some tractors also have a PTO located mid section for purposes like mid- mounted mower decks. PTOs may be of the 'standard' and the 'live-drive' type. The latter type is preferred, since it can operate regardless of whether the  tractor is moving, or clutch is engaged.

 Transmission type
 Transmission types vary from conventional manual gearbox and clutch-actuated types to semi or fully automated 'hydrostatic' types. Given that modern  machinery is more reliable than ever, there will be little to differentiate the options other than price and convenience. If your use involves a lot of forwarding  and reversing, an automatic type might be preferable.

 Power steering
 Fortunately, most modern compact tractors have a power steering feature and it is well worth any extra cost.

 Three point linkage
 A tractor three-point linkage is found at the rear of the tractor. It is essentially a triangular attachment configuration consisting of a rigid 'top link' at the apex  and two lower arms to either side, via which an implement can be attached to the tractor. The lower arms are power driven via internal hydraulics in order to  raise or lower the attached implement.  Most compact tractor types have a 'category 1'  three-point linkage  and some of the larger tractors may sport a  combination 'category 1 - category 2'  type. In short, a three-point linkage is essential.

 External hydraulics
 This can be a slightly complicated area.  Ensure your tractor at least has a hydraulic outlet capable of powering a hydraulic cylinder.  Many implements  (such as a hydraulically adjustable tractor blade) utilise this feature. If you intend to fit a front-end loader or an external hydraulic motor, research the  tractor's hydraulic capabilities for its lifting capacity, speed of action, and its ability to operate several hydraulic functions simultaneously.  A tractor or  implement dealer will be able competently advise you on this.

 In summary
 While the initial monetary investment in a small-farm tractor can be high, if well maintained a tractor will easily last 30 years or more with minimal ongoing  costs. Compared to other farm machinery 'investments' like quad bikes that typically last only 5 to 10 years and have high annual maintenance costs, a  tractor usually works out to be one of the more cost effective investments you can make in farming.  

How to plant, grow and harvest raspberries

Raspberries are naturally inclined to grow in cooler climates, although the development of adaptable varieties has made it possible for gardeners to grow raspberries in many zones. They are relatively easy to grow, and with proper care, can bear fruit indefinitely. Don’t limit yourself to the common red raspberry; try growing purple as well!

Planting

Plant in the early spring (or late winter for warm zones)

Plant far from wild growing berries, otherwise risk the spread of pests and diseases to your garden.

Prepare soil with compost or aged manure a couple weeks before planting.

Raspberries love moisture, so try soaking the roots for an hour or two before planting.

Dig a hole that is roomy enough for the roots to spread.

Space plants about 3 feet apart, in rows 8 feet apart.

After planting, cut back canes, leaving 8 to 10 inches. 

Depending on the variety you plant, you may need to fashion a support. A trellis or a fence are good options. If you chose to use one of these, establish them at or before time of planting so the plants are not disturbed when maturing.

Care

Mulching is important throughout the season to conserve moisture and suffocate weeds. Keep a thick layer of mulch surrounding plants at all times.

Water one inch per week.

The roots send up an abundant amount of shoots, called canes. Keep order by pruning away the majority of them so that the survivors can produce lots of berries.

Harvest/Storage

All varieties will begin to produce fruit in their second season. In some cases, ever-bearers may bear small berries in their first autumn.

In early summer, berries will ripen over a time of about 2 weeks. You will need to pick berries every couple of days.

Try to harvest berries on a sunny day when they are dry.

Don't tug too hard on your raspberries when picking. A ripe raspberry will leave the vine willingly.

Raspberries can be kept refrigerated for about 5 days.

If the fruit is to be made into preserves, it should be done straight off the plant.

Raspberries can be frozen. Make a single layer of berries on a cookie sheet. When frozen, place into airtight bags.

Recommended Varieties

'Canby' recommended for New England, Upper Great Lakes and Northwest.

'Heritage' recommended for the Mid-Atlantic and Ohio Valley.

'Fallgold' yellow variety recommended for the Upper Midwest and Canada.

'Plainsman' recommended for the Rockies and High Plains.

Planting, Growing and Harvesting Eggplant

Eggplants are short-lived perennial vegetables, but are usually cultivated as annuals. Also known as aubergines, eggplants differ mainly in size, shape and color of the fruits. Eggplants are tropical and subtropical, requiring relatively high temperatures. Related crop include tomatoes, potatoes and peppers.

Planting

Start plants indoors 2 months before the soil warms up or buy nursery transplants just before planting.

Place 3 to 4 inch tall seedlings 24 to 30 inches apart in well-prepared beds.

Pinch out the terminal growing points for a bushier plant.

Care

Stake plants over 24 inches tall.

Water well and apply a balanced fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season.

For bigger fruits, restrict to five or six per plant.

Harvest/Storage

Harvest 16 to 24 weeks after sowing when the skin of the fruit is shiny and unwrinkled. 

Cut the fruit close to the stem, but leaving about an inch of it attached.

Eggplants can be stored for up to two weeks in humid conditions no lower than 50 degrees F.

Recommended Varieties

'Black Beauty'

'Easter Egg'

'Little Fingers'

How to Plant in Wide Rows

What is a Wide Row?
Growing in wide rows in the vegetable garden basically means that instead of planting an individual row of seed or plants, you set them out in strips that are 1 - 4 ft. in width. The row can be any length you like.

Wide rows allow you to squeeze more vegetables into less space. Planting single rows means that you have to leave space to walk between them. A wide row still allows you to reach into the center of the row to seed, weed or harvest, but you won't be walking in between the plants.

This style of planting works especially well with vegetables that are harvested over a prolonged period of time, either as cut and come again, like leaf lettuce, and other salad greens or later maturing cooking greens, like kale, chard and collards, as well as vegetables that are succession planted, such as radishes, carrots, beets, peas and beans.

Large vegetable plants, like tomatoes, would not be good choices for wide rows. Otherwise you can plant just about any type of vegetable in a wide row, as long as you don't crowd them too closely. Even long season vegetables, like garlic, onions, leeks and parsnips, can be grown in wide rows.

You have two options when planting wide rows:

1. Multiple Single Rows - Within each wide row, you can layout 2 or more straight line single rows. You can even stagger the planting times or mix vegetable varieties in a single wide row. For instance, you could designate a wide row for beets and plant a single row each week, for 4 weeks, so that you wind up with four rows of beets that will mature at different times.
Succession planting that way means that some of the wide row will remain unplanted for almost a month. If space is tight, another option is to plant a row of beets, a row of radishes and a row of spinach. The radishes and spinach are fast growers and you can replant their rows with more beets or whatever else you'd like to try in that row.

You could also interplant plant slower growing plants with vegetables that will mature and be harvested by the time the slower plants need the space. For instance, you could plant small pepper seedlings in the same wide row with radishes or arugula. As the pepper plants start to grow, they will provide cooling shade for the spring vegetables, which will be harvested long before the peppers fully spread out.

And finally, you can divide your wide rows into blocks, planting 1 - 2 ft. stretches of the row with different crops, for instance, a block of onions followed by a block of lettuce followed by a block of chard in the same row. This is my preferred way to succession plant without leaving empty wasted blocks.

This kind of companion planting takes some finagling, but it definitely lets you get a higher yield from a small space.

2. Broadcast Seeding - If you are direct sowing seed, you don't have to adhere to straight line rows. You can simply scatter seeds across the wide row. This works great for bush peas and beans. When these plants are grown in a wide block, the plants are able to help support each other as they grow.
Lettuce and other salad greens are also easy to broadcast seed. You can thin young plants or cut only the outside leaves of plants and allow the remaining plants to continue growing.

Don't be tempted to sow too densely. The plants will still need good air circulation as they grow, to prevent diseases and other problems. That's why plants that can be thinned and eaten while young make such good candidates for broadcast seeding.
A bonus of wide row planting is that less of your garden soil is being walked on and so less of it gets compacted. When you soil remains loose, you won't have to till the soil to replant and the insects and other organisms in the soil remain more active.

How to Start a Small Farm Business

If you want to start a small farm business, you may be wondering what step to take first. You might not even have land yet, but you are still thinking and planning for the time when you will make your move. And finding farmland is one important step in farming - one that you'll want to take after considering some other factors.

Learn About Farming

You can't go wrong starting with this step. If you're new to farming, learn everything you can about it within the time you have. But be reasonable, too. You can't know everything there is to know. Some learning will have to be on the job, and trial and error is messy, time-consuming and sometimes costly. Yet it's inevitable with farming, so embrace the process. But learn some, too. Balance.

If you can find a mentor - someone you can learn from directly, perhaps in your community now or where you hope to farm - it can be extremely helpful. If you haven't already, work on a farm. Volunteer. Gain experience before you begin.

Design and Plan Your Farm

An important part of starting your farm business is defining what it will be. Do you want to have a micro-scale vegetable farm? Do you plan to grow acres of hay for other farmers? Maybe you want to have a diversified farm - a small-scale operation that grows a variety of animals and crops. You might even be wondering how to start an ecotourism farm, where people will come to stay to see the workings of your farm and perhaps even participate in farm chores.

Write a Business Plan

You may wonder if you need a business plan. The short answer: if you want to start a business, you will need a business plan. In the writing of the business plan, you will consider markets, supply and demand, as well as anything and everything that pertains to your farm-operations, management structure, financial analysis, products and price points. You may cycle between this step and the previous one, designing and planning, because they are interconnected. But a business plan is a significant enough part of starting a business to take up an entire step. It's where you take your dreams and brainstorms and make them reality.

Find Grants and Loans

You might not have all the capital you need to start farming on the scale that you'd like. You can start small, dip a toe in the water and see how you enjoy farming on a micro scale, using whatever you can glean from your monthly household budget to invest in the farm. But it might take a long time to get anywhere using this method, as you may not be able to invest a significant amount, enough to bring product to market. Grants and loans aimed at young and beginning farmers are out there! Help is available for established farmers, too. Programs offer subsidized equipment like high tunnels, assistance in certifying organic, and more.

Get Business Licenses and Permits

Your local and state law may vary when it comes to the requirements for establishing a small farm business. But the basics are the same: you will probably need to register your business name, purchase a business license, get an employer identification number, and carry product liability insurance.

Set Up Finances

You will also need to decide on your business structure. Will this be a sole proprietorship, an LLC or something else? Contact an accountant to get information specific to your situation. Financial planning should be in your business plan. It's very important to set up a system for bookkeeping and accounting from the start of your small farm business.

How to Grow Sprouts on the Small Farm

It's not quite time to start seeds for the outdoor gardening season, but the cold frame or greenhouse is looking tired and long in the tooth. It's the perfect time to grow sprouts! Quick, delicious, healthy and easy to grow, these tiny green wonders are a great addition to your farm plan any time of year. There is definitely a local niche for sprouts for those who want to include them as part of their farm business.

Sprouting is the practice of germinating seeds to be eaten (raw or cooked). Sprouts are concentrated in nutrition and rich in health-promoting enzymes. They are crunchy and fresh raw and savory when cooked.

One big factor to consider when growing sprouts, especially as a business but even for yourself, is that some sprouts have sickened people because of bacterial contamination. The warm, moist environment needed to grow sprouts is also conducive to growing bacteria.

Types of Sprouts

Basically any type of bean, grass or vegetable seed can be grown as a sprout, although some sprouts can be eaten raw. Some of the more commonly sprouted seeds are:

Lentils

Mung beans
Alfalfa
Quinoa
Chickpeas
Broccoli
Radish
Beet
Pea
Sunflower
Almonds
Peanuts

Supplies for Growing Sprouts

Sprouting seeds. You do want to buy seeds specifically grown for sprouting, as these have been cleaned for eating as sprouts and therefore free of pathogens.

Clean, wide-mouth jar. Mason canning jars work well. Fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth, or seed sprouting jar top (or make your own from mesh and a canning jar ring).

Lidded container for sprout storage.

Scaling Up to Sprout Farming

If you are growing sprouts on a farm scale, you may use seed trays, also called flats, to grow your sprouts. You will likely want a use some kind of greenhouseLINK to grow sprouts to sell to larger markets, but you can make do with many different situations as far as equipment. Sprouts do not need a lot of light since they are harvested before they grow leaves, which carry out photosynthesis.

Sprouts require moisture, warmth, light, proper ventilation, nutrients, a growing medium, and a growing container. You may need to provide heat via electrical propagation units, figure out how to water with an automated irrigation system, and so forth. But the sprout operation setup can be as simple or as complex as you want it to be. You could begin by adding a set of shelves with eight or twelve seed flats on it and try selling small amounts of sprouts before committing to a larger venture, or you could fill a greenhouse with seed flats.

How to Grow Sprouts

These are the simplest step by step instructions for how to grow sprouts. Actual details may vary depending on the variety you are growing, especially sprouting time.

Rinse seeds several times in warm water. Make sure to rinse well and to drain them well in between rinses.
Soak seeds overnight in fresh water.
Drain and put seeds into your sprouting container (if you use a jar, they may already be there).
Place the sprouting container in a room-temperature spot that receives some light (indirect is best - too much sun or heat is not good).
Twice daily, rinse and drain the seeds well. Keep them damp but not wet and make sure they have room to breathe without drying out. Sprouts need good air circulation.
Harvest sprouts when - they've sprouted! Before you see their true leaves open. You can also taste the sprouts when you rinse.

Harvesting and Storing Sprouts

Time to sprout varies by crop, but is typically three to five days. Some sprouts will retain their hulls, which you can eat or remove by brushing them off gently with your hand or rinsing the sprouts in a quick cool-water soak. You can spin them out in a salad spinner.

Before storing sprouts in the refrigerator, they must be quite dry. Spin them well in the salad spinner and/or let them drain for about 12 hours after rinsing.

Safe storage times for sprouts vary, but generally they last about one week. Any sprouts that are discolored or smell funny should be composted - don't eat old sprouts!

Selling Sprouts

You can sell sprouts at the farmers markets and your local grocery stores and food co-ops. Many people love sprouts for their nutritional benefits without having to go to the trouble of sprouting at home.

Merry Christmas !